When people talk about going to Hvar, they usually mean the city of Hvar, not the island itself. The city has become a super popular destination over the last two decades.
I have some news for you: there are other awesome places on Hvar Island, like Jelsa. I have never stayed in Jelsa, but I have visited it multiple times over the last 18 years.
What I love about Jelsa is the vibe. As soon as you arrive on the Riva in Jelsa, it screams holiday. Everything feels so nice and perfectly tuned for welcoming guests.
In the video below, I take you on a tour around Jelsa.
Some facts about Jelsa:
Jelsa has a population of about 1800 people, roughly the same as Stari Grad and half the size of Hvar town. It sits in a protected bay on the north side of the island.
- In the 19th century, Hvar Island was a major wine producer, and most wine was shipped through Jelsa’s port, which was the main maritime hub on the island.
- Jelsa has a fast ferry connection to Bol on Brac Island and to Split.
- Every year at the end of August, Jelsa hosts a three day wine festival.
- Jelsa is a hot spot for boat day trips. Several boats arrive from and depart to Bol and the mainland each day. On the day I recorded my video, there were five boats.
- The largest supermarket on Hvar Island, Plodine, is just outside Jelsa.
Old Town and Seafront
Life in Jelsa centers around the seaside, the port, and the old town.
The south side of the port, called the Riva, and Pjaca are the main areas in town. You find many restaurants, coffee bars, and ice cream places there.
The north side of the port, Mala Banda, also has several restaurants with tables right by the sea.
The old town has cozy, narrow streets. Everywhere you go, you find restaurants, many with nicely decorated hidden courtyards.
Beaches in Jelsa
Jelsa is home to the best sandy beaches on Hvar Island. Mina Beach is 1 km from the town center. Since parking is limited, you can take the seaside walking path to get there.
At Mina Beach, you can rent deckchairs, and several water sports activities are offered. On the small road above the beach, there’s a coffee bar and a fast food place.
The next bay after Mina Beach has a nice sandy beach called Grebisce Beach, about 2 km south of the town center.
The beach closest to the center is Copacabana Town Beach, located at the end of the port on the south side of town.
Beaches on the north side of town are mostly rocky, but about 1.2 km from the center, you can find the nice pebble beach Vitarnja.
Activities
If you want to add some adventure to your holiday, Jelsa has plenty of options.
As mentioned, day tour boats leave from Jelsa to Bol and the mainland.
Other water sports activities in the area include boat rentals, an aquapark at Mina Beach, and jet ski rentals.
If you prefer activities on solid ground, you have lots of options too.
North of town, Jelsa Adventure Park offers a variety of games under the pines, like paintball and family games.
If you love exploring, you can rent quads to tour the island. For inspiration, check out our quad trip from Stari Grad.
Bicycles, either old fashioned or electric, are another option in Jelsa. For example, you could ride to the UNESCO site, the Stari Grad Plain.
For adults, wine tasting is available at Tomic Winery and Dubokovic Winery, both within walking distance from the town center.
Who Should Visit Jelsa?
I think Jelsa is perfect for a family holiday with kids. The city is not too crowded, the beaches are great, the prices are reasonable, and there are plenty of activities to keep everyone happy.
To get the most out of your holiday, arrive by car. This gives you easy access to shopping and lets you explore the island if you need a break from the beach.
The easiest way to get to the island by car is to take the Split to Stari Grad ferry. From the port, it’s only a 15 minute drive to Jelsa.
In terms of where to stay in Jelsa, you have plenty of choices, including private apartments, holiday houses, hotels, and the Mila campsite.
My Final Thoughts
If a holiday means relaxing, Jelsa is a place to consider. It’s small but not too small.
I might have mentioned it before, but one of the best things about the town is the welcoming vibe you feel as soon as you arrive. The city is very well maintained.
There are enough activities for the whole family, and you can walk to pretty much everything.
Most importantly, at Cafe 1962 on the corner of Pjaca, you’ll find some fantastic cakes. So, what’s not to like? 😉
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Where is Jelsa located on Hvar Island?
Jelsa is on the northern coast of Hvar Island, in a calm bay, positioned southeast of Stari Grad.
How do I get to Jelsa from Split?
Take a year-round passenger catamaran from Split to Jelsa port (about 1.5 hours). Otherwise, take the ferry to Stari Grad (2 hours) then bus or drive 15-20 minutes.
What are the best beaches in and near Jelsa?
Mina Beach (sandy, family-friendly, 10-minute walk from center), Grebišće (pebble, 2 km away), and Zečevo (naturist island, short boat ride). You can find other nearby Hvar beaches here.
What are the top things to do in Jelsa?
My favorite is just walking along the promenade, relaxing at one of the cafes on Riva. It’s best suited for relaxing.
How does Jelsa compare to Hvar Town?
Jelsa is much quieter, more relaxed, and has less crowds; Hvar Town is lively with nightlife, yachts, and upscale vibe.
Is Jelsa a good base for exploring Hvar Island?
Yes, it’s central with bus lines to Hvar Town (30-40 minutes) and easy access to south-side beaches via Pitve tunnel. But I recommend exploring Hvar island with a car, if possible.
When is the best time to visit Jelsa?
In the shoulder season – May-June or September-October, when the weather is still nice, sea temperature is also good, but there are less people.
Are there good restaurants and nightlife in Jelsa?
Yes, you will find authentic konobas and waterfront dining places; nightlife is relaxed with bars and occasional live music, not party-heavy.
How long should I spend in Jelsa?
2-3 days to enjoy the town, beaches, nearby villages like Vrboska, and island day trips by scooter or car.
